Each of our customers receives a huge amount of information when they visit us. Sometimes, it can be overwhelming!
Below are a few informative guides for any brewer, because sometimes the seasoned brewers even need a refresher.


Equipment needed

Siphon set
Bottle filler
Bottling bucket
Approx. 48 12oz. bottles
Caps and Capper
5oz of priming sugar for every 5 gallons of beer. (1 oz per gallon)

  1. Sanitize everything that will come in contact with your brew before you begin.
  2. Transfer the beer, via a siphon, into your bottles or your bottling bucket.
    • When transferring the beer make sure that:
    • the siphon set is assembled properly (the flexible tubing should be attached to the curved end of the umbrella tipped racking tube.
    • the umbrella tip is allowed to rest on the bottom of the fermenter.
    • the flow of beer is directed to the bottom of the receiving bucket.
    • splashing & agitating the beer is avoided, as this will create off flavors.
    • take a hydrometer reading (The reading should register within .002 S.G. points of what the recipe predicted.)
  3. If transferring to a-
    • Bottle: secure a bottle filler to the siphon hose, fill each bottle, then add 1/2tsp. of priming sugar to each 12oz. bottle (this is bottle priming).
    • Bottling Bucket: boil the 5 oz sugar in one cup of water. Pour this solution into the bottling bucket and transfer your beer into the bucket (this is bulk priming).
  4. Once the beer has been primed and bottled, secure each bottle with a cap and store in upright position at temperature the beer was fermented at. Within two weeks the beer should be sufficiently clarified and carbonated and ready to enjoy!

Making a Starter

Equipment needed

1lb of extra light dry malt extract (DME)
fresh water
glass container
small pan

Overview: Starters are meant to help bring the cell count up before pitching into wort. This is good practice to help ensure proper fermentation and yeast health, and can be applied to wort that has gravity of 1.040 and up.

  1. First we have to get some basic math out of the way. The easiest ratio for a starter is 10grams of DME for every 100ml of water. The smallest starter you should consider is 1 liter.
  2. Once you have your ratio you want to add the water to the pan and bring up to a near boil. Once you are close to a boil ~190 degrees add in your malt extract.
  3. Bring the mixture up to a boil and maintain the boil for 5 minutes, this is going to make a small beer of ~1.040 gravity.
  4. Once you have finished boiling the mixture it’s time to cool.
    • Take the pan off the stove and place in a cold location and chill it down to 68-70 degrees
  5. Once cooled down, pour the mixture into a sanitized jar or glass bottle. Cover the container with loose fitting plastic or foil, the introduction of oxygen is a good thing.
  6. It is a good practice if you do not have a stir plate to periodically shake the mixture as to keep it slightly aerated.
  7. The starter should be ready to pitch after 36-48 hours.

Sulli at homebrewtalk had made a diagram to help illustrate the process.

Yeast Proofing

Equipment Needed

Sanitized Glass 8oz or above
1 cup warm water (~70F)

Overview: Yeast proofing is a process where hydrating the dry yeast to ensure vitality and activate the yeast before pitching.

  1. Pour about 1 cup of lukewarm water into a sterile glass.
  2. Sprinkle yeast into the water, cover the glass with foil and let stand 10-15 min.
  3. The yeast should dissolve and release a dough like aroma. If this does not occur, repeat with new yeast.

Know your Camlocks

Common Home Brewing Camlocks

We offer camlocks as an inexpensive alternative to quick disconnects and barbs. Camlocks provide a sterile connection and can quickly be disconnected without the need of any tools. Using a standard fitting across your brewing equipment is highly recommended and takes the guess work out come brew day. We offer 1/2inch camlocks, as that is the most common size used in most home brewing applications.


Cam Type: A| Used on pumps almost exclusively

Cam Type: B| Can be used on bulk heads, sometimes used with high temp tubing

Cam Type: C| Used primarily for connections on tubing

Cam Type: F| Used on bulk heads or threaded fittings

Example| Pump assembly with 3 piece ball valve